Route library · Outstation · Desert & forts
Delhi to Nagaur
Nagaur, on the old caravan road between Jodhpur and Bikaner, holds the Ahhichatragarh (‘fort of the hooded cobra’) — a sprawling walled complex of painted pavilions, water gardens, fountains and channels, restored over decades in a project that won an Aga Khan award. Below it, the Tarkeen dargah draws pilgrims and the town keeps a Jain temple and old havelis. It is a desert-edge town that almost every Rajasthan itinerary skips — which is exactly the point.
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At a glance
- Round trip
- About 950–1,050 km
- Riding time
- 2 days each way
- Nights
- 2 nights
- Start point
- Delhi (via Jaipur, Kishangarh and Merta on NH-448/NH-58)
- Highest point
- Flat desert-edge plains — about 300 m
- Difficulty
- Moderate. Fast highway to Kishangarh, then straight, open, wind-blown desert roads to Nagaur.
- Surface
- Sealed throughout; the Kishangarh–Merta–Nagaur stretch is two-lane with broken edges, sand drift near the verges and long empty sections.
- Best season
- October to March. Winter days are pleasant and the nights cold; the famous Nagaur cattle fair falls in Jan–Feb (busy, colourful); April to June is severe desert heat; the monsoon is brief and the roads stay usable.
The ride
Delhi → Jaipur → Kishangarh → Merta → Nagaur over two days — expressway-grade to Kishangarh, then open desert two-lane. Base inside or beside the fort.
Spend the time in the Ahhichatragarh fort — the Hadi Rani mahal, the Sheesh Mahal, the gardens and hammams — then the Tarkeen dargah, the Jain temple and the old town. If you time it for the cattle fair (Jan–Feb) the maidan outside town fills with livestock, traders and folk performers. Bikaner or Jodhpur are each a half-day on if you want to extend.
Day by day
Delhi to Kishangarh / Nagaur
Highway via Jaipur to Kishangarh, then desert roads toward Nagaur (9–11 hours). Night at or near Nagaur.
Nagaur
A full day in the Ahhichatragarh fort and the old town; the cattle fair maidan if it is on. Second night in Nagaur.
Nagaur to Delhi
The two-day ride home — start early to cover the desert roads before the afternoon wind and heat.
Fuel & services
- Fuel is fine to Kishangarh — the expressway, Jaipur, Kishangarh.
- The Kishangarh–Merta–Nagaur stretch has pumps only at the towns, with 60–90 km gaps and sand drift on the verges. Fill at Kishangarh and Merta and carry 3–5 litres of spare for the group.
- Nagaur has the fort's own heritage tents (seasonal, and during the fair), a couple of hotels and simple guesthouses. Food is basic Marwari fare. Carry cash; card acceptance is thin and reliable ATMs are in the bigger towns.
Road & conditions
Highway to Kishangarh is fast four-lane with the usual truck and fatigue hazards. Beyond, the desert roads are straight, open two-lane with broken edges, blowing sand near the verges, crosswinds, and slow camel-cart and tractor traffic — not difficult, but tiring and exposed. Ride in daylight; livestock and stray dogs wander the road near villages, and the wind picks up in the afternoon.
Bike, fuel & getting help
- Suggested bike
- Fine on a well-maintained 150–200cc commuter.
- Fuel gap
- One long stretch without a pump — fill up before it and top off where you can.
- Spare fuel
- Carry 3–5 litres of spare fuel.
- Emergency & logistics
- District hospitals in the route towns; generally good signal; long gaps between towns on the rural link roads — carry a puncture kit and water.
Best time to ride
October to March. November, December and February are the most comfortable — warm days, cold nights, clear light on the fort. The Nagaur cattle fair (usually late January or February) is a spectacle but the town is crowded and rooms are scarce and dear — book well ahead. April to June is punishing desert heat. The monsoon is short and the roads cope.
What to add to your kit
Beyond the standard ride kit: a proper warm layer for cold desert nights, a dust buff and eye protection for the sand and wind, sun cover for the day, spare fuel for the group, and cash. Nothing technical.
Ride this with a group
We run Nagaur as a 3-day outstation ride — two days of desert road between Jaipur and Bikaner, a fort of painted rooms and water gardens almost nobody stops at, and a dargah-approach clean-up as the service action.